How To Set Up Belay Device

Top Rope Belay Setup Overview

Attire

The climber and belayer must habiliment a harness designed specifically for stone climbing. The harness should fit snugly in a higher place the hips, with the buckles for the waist and leg loops doubled dorsum. Climbers are likewise required to wear shoes designed specifically for rock climbing. If the climber is wearing a helmet, it should exist properly fitted and secure.

The components of a rental harness include the 1: self-locking buckles, 2: belay loop, and 3: tie-in loops — Climbers should know the components of the harness they are using

The harnesses that the wall rents out are comprised of simple webbing straps sewn together, incorporating:

Cocky-locking buckles which should be doubled back
A blueish or black vertical belay loop, for clipping carabiners to
Two blue horizontal necktie-in loops, also known as hard points, for tying rope to

Tying in the Climber

Choose the strand of rope closest to the wall, to keep the ii strands from rubbing against each other. The climber needs to be attached to the rope with a solid connection that cannot come up undone during the climb. At LCC we require the climber to tie in with a Figure 8 Follow Through, a knot which tin withstand a great corporeality of load and all the same be untied relatively easily after the climb. Follow the harness manufacturer's specifications on where the knot is tied, typically through both tie-in points. The knot should be tied within six" of the harness and tightly dressed.The remaining tail must be a minimum of 6" long. Tying off the extra tail is not required for prophylactic,but may be done to keep information technology out of the manner.

Retracing a Effigy viii
Movie of Steps	Description of Steps
	Tie a Figure viii knot about three' from the terminate of the rope. Now thread the end through both necktie-in points.
	Retrace the original knot, pulling through completely to cinch the knot shut to the harness.
	Continue to retrace, being certain not to cross over the strand you are following.
	Complete the retrace, tucking whatever crossed strands back in place.
	A properly dressed knot has no gaps and no crossed strands, with at least 6" of tail remaining.

Basic Climbing Knots Video

At 3:02 we review how to tie a Effigy eight and and so the Figure 8 follow Through.

Setting upwardly the Belay Device

The belayer's strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer'southward specifications and attached to the belayer'due south belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. Tube style and Assisted Braking devices are both acceptable for top rope belay at LCC. For a basic tube way device, feed a bight of rope through either opening and clip both the bight and device's keeper loop, with the brake strand feeding out of the lesser of the device. Once clipped, there should be no twists in the arrangement or stands wrapping over each other. Verify the carabiner is locked by performing a squeeze test.

A properly clipped belay device with the brake strand feeding out below the climbing strand — Clip both the device loop and the rope, such that the brake strand is beneath the climber's strand, then lock the carabiner.

Consider an Anchor

A footing anchor is non required for most climbing at LCC, but should be considered if the climber outweighs their belayer past l lbs. or more. To use the fixed ground anchors, attach an additional locking carabiner to your belay loop, below the belay device, and and so prune to a loop on the ballast so that it is relatively taut. Mobile sand anchors are also available, and must exist used when climbing at "Archetype Lindseth."

A belayer has clipped the ground anchor to their belay loop, below the separately clipped belay device — Consider a basis ballast if the climber is significantly heavier than the belayer.

Tie a Stopper Knot

To close the system, tie a stopper knot beneath the belay device. At LCC nosotros request a Double Overhand stopper knot be tied, with at least 6" of tail remaining. A single overhand knot is non adequate. While stopper knots are rarely necessary in the gym environment, they are essential for outdoor climbing and are a good habit to get into. A properly dressed barrel knot is identified by the symmetrical "Ten" on i side and "=" on the other.

A correctly tied stopper knot — Know how to identify a correctly tied stopper knot.

Basic Climbing Knots Video

At xi:thirteen we review how to tie a Double Overhand stopper knot.

Partner Check

Once the system has been setup, the climber and belayer should run through each component of the system together to verify everything is in social club. For newer climbers this is a good opportunity to learn about the system; for experienced climbers it is also important to ensure mistakes are non fabricated though self-approbation. Now is a good time to remove whatever slack in the organisation.

Establishing Communication

The following are standard commands used at LCC. Because the climber and belayer are separated, brief commands are used in place of compete sentences. Regardless of the commands used, information technology is important that both the belayer and climber share a mutual vocabulary for effective communication. The belayer is expected to review these commands with their climber earlier the climb.

Belay Commands
Who Says It	Command	What it Ways
Climber	ON BELAY?	Is the system set up correctly? Are you lot set to protect me?
Belayer	BELAY ON	I have verified the arrangement is set up correctly, and I am now fix to protect you lot (even if yous start climbing right away).
Climber	CLIMBING	I am ready to outset climbing.
Belayer	CLIMB ON	(Even though I was already prepared) Y'all may now climb. Have fun!
Climber	Take!	I want to let go, please increase the tension speedily!
Belayer	GOT!	I have removed whatsoever slack and am gear up to hold you lot in place. You lot may let get with confidence.
Climber	Upwards ROPE	The rope is not tight enough, please increase the tension.
Climber	SLACK	The rope is likewise tight, delight release the tension.
Climber	Rock!	Something is falling to the footing!
Climber	Fix TO LOWER	I have allow become of the wall and want to be lowered to the basis.
Belayer	LOWERING	I volition now lower you in a controlled fashion. Sit back and relax.
Climber	BELAY OFF	I am safety and no longer need y'all to protect me.
Belayer	OFF BELAY	I take removed the belay device from the system.

Annotation: The Climber initiates the Belayer's actions. Once the "Belay is ON," the belayer should be focusing on removing slack in a timely manner, responding to the climber's needs, and being prepared to catch a fall at any moment. A belayer should not Accept, LOWER, or get OFF BELAY without the climber'southward management. However, words of encouragement during the climb, or gratitude after, are welcome!

Belay Technique - PBUS or Bust!

The post-obit are the standard motions we require at LCC for safe belay technique. The sequence nosotros follow is PULL, Restriction, Under, SLIDE (PBUS). The restriction hand must grip the brake strand at all times and the arrangement must be in brake position when sliding the restriction paw up. Waterfall technique, where both easily remain on the brake stand the entire time, is also accepted. Excess slack or crossing over or switching brake easily while belaying, are not accepted. Slip, Slap, Slide technique is not accepted.

PBUS Technique
Moving-picture show of Movement	Description of Motion
	The brake hand maintains a firm grip on the brake strand, a few inches below the belay device.
	The device becomes unlocked with the brake hand in a higher place it, allowing you to floss the rope slack apace.
	Immediately bring the brake manus down to allow the device to grab an unanticipated fall.
	With your not-brake hand, reach below the brake mitt and grip the rope firmly.
	Relax the brake hand grip and slide it up towards the device, leaving a few inches of space to proceed from getting pinched by the device. Tighten your grip with the brake manus,and reset your other manus above the device.